“See Naples then die” — Goethe
A Brief History:
Naples in the regional capital of Campania and the third largest city of Italy after Rome and Milan. The history of Naples could be seen as the history of Europe. After first establishing colonies on the islands as early as 2nd millenium BC, the first Greek settlement on mainland Italy was founded in around the 8th century BC as a city called Cumae.
As it grew, Cumae was renamed as Neapolis, or “new city” becoming one of Ancient Greece’s strongest colonies and an important cultural hub. Even when taken over by the Romans, who used the city as a resort, it retained its Hellenistic culture, and attracted famous historical figures like the poet Vigil. In 72 AD, one of the most devastating volcanic eruptions of all time took place. Mount Vesuvius, which destroyed the nearby city of Pompeii.
Neapolis managed to maintain a period of peace until the 5th century AD, when the decline of the Western Roman Empire saw a period of complict as the Byzantines of the Eastern Roman Empire and the Germanic peoples who took control of Italy fought for control over the region.
During the Medieval and Renaissance periods, Naples changes hands between the Normans, French, Germans, and Spanish empires. In the 1700s, Naples and the rest of Southern Italy became an independent and prospering kingdom until 1790 when Italy felt the affects of Napolean’s army and the French revolution. The 1800s saw a revolution and return to monarchy under the Kingdm of the Two Sicilian, and Naples voted to join the country and became part of the Kingdom of italy.
In World War II, Naples was the first Italian city to rise up against Nazi military occupation, and was successfuly liberated of the invading German forces. Despite the popular uprising, the city suffered heavy bombing and recovery was long and slow, not helped by another eruption of the Mount Vesuvius in 1944.
Throughout the 20th century, Naples had problems with high unemployment and deep-rooted organized crime, with further destruction caused by a massive earthquake in 1980. However, in recent decades, the city has been completely regguvinated and is a thriving hub of culture and history.
Food Tour:
We came to Napoli via our trip from the Amalfi coast. It’s a short train ride and well worth it. I hadn’t been to Southern Italy and the differences between Rome and Milan were evident with the people being louder, warmer, and the city in general reminding me more of home in New Orleans: she’s a little messy but she’s beautiful anyway.
We spent our first day going on a walking food tour of the city which is my favorite way to see any new city. Pizza as the world knows it today has its root in Naples. The Neapolitan Pizza is strictly governed for quality and topping standards by the VPN (Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana) and has inspired numerous interpretations and stylistic variations.
The poor classes sof Naples were the first to eat Pizza in the 18th century.While flatbread was a known commodity, the tomatoes brought to Europe from Peru by expxlorers were thought to be poisonous. That is, until poor mariners and other tradesmen began topping their flatbreads with the imported fruits. Locals and tourists alike enjoyed the “Pizza Marinara” which had no cheese and was commonly made by the wives of fishermen.
Raffaele Esposito created the first Pizza Margherita for Queen Margherita of Savoy. He topped it with fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil, to mirror the Italian flag.
In addition to the most amazing pizzas, we were able to have fresh mozzarella (which I learned should never be kept in the fridge!), pasts, rum-soaked pastries, and gelato.
Pulcinella:
In the pulsating heart of Naples, among the narrow streets of the UNESCO historic center, stands an iconic figure, a symbol of luck and tradition: the statue of Pulcinella. Positioned gracefully in the charming Vico del Fico Al Purgatorio, this statue fascinates and enchants visitors with its lively character and undeniable charm.
Crafted with mastery by Lello Esposito, a renowned Neapolitan artist, the statue of Pulcinella is an ode to the cultural and artistic heritage of the city. Its features pay tribute to the famous character of Neapolitan commedia dell’arte, known for his wit, lively spirit, and irresistible charm. Touching Pulcinella’s nose brings good luck and fortune to adventurers and visitors who immerse themselves in the magical atmosphere of Naples.
But the statue of Pulcinella is not just a symbol of luck. It’s also a work of art that embodies the skill and creativity of the artist who sculpted it. Lello Esposito has masterfully captured the essence of Pulcinella, giving his work a vibrant and unique soul. Moreover, upon closer inspection, one can appreciate the finely crafted details: the playful expression of the face, the dynamic posture, and the characteristic clothing that evoke Pulcinella’s timeless charm. Every detail is carefully crafted with love and attention, testifying to the artist’s pride and passion for his city and its culture.
The statue of Pulcinella is much more than a mere tourist attraction. It’s an icon that tells the story of Naples, its vitality, and its indomitable spirit. It’s an irresistible lure for those who wish to immerse themselves in the authentic soul of the city, embracing its tradition and timeless beauty.
Church of Pio Monte della Misericordia:
Being a die hard Caravaggio fan there was no way I could miss seeing his painting The Seven Acts of Mercy (also known as The Seven Works of Mercy). This was his first masterpiece painting since killing a man and fleeing Rome.
The seven acts as represented in Caravaggio’s masterpiece are:
- Visit the imprisoned
- Feed the hungry
- Bury the dead
- Shelter the homeless
- Clothe the naked
- Visit the sick
- Refresh the thirsty
Duomo di Napoli:
The Duomo di Napoli is the largest church in the city of Naples. It was built in the 13th century and is located in the heart of Naples. The cathedral gives access to the archaeological remains in the crypt of the neighboring original palaeochristian church of Santa Restituta where there is a Greek wall beloning to the temple of Apollo.
Another attraction of the interior is the Royal Chapel of the Treasure of San Genaro, with frescoes by Domenichino and Giovanni Lanfranco, altarpieces by Domenichin, Massimo Stanzione, and Jusepe Ribera, the right high alter by Francesco Solimena, the bronze railing by Cosimo Fanzago and other artworks including a reliquary by French masters of the 14th century.
For the remainder of our trip we walked around the winding narrow streets of the city enhoying the colors and sights. One of my favorite memories from the trip was walking around the city at night during a local football game. Every time the local team scored the whole city erupted in chears.
I highly recommend visiting this magical city on your next trip to Italy! Thank you for reading and until next time!
